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Propagate Like a Pro: The Secret Art of Plant Layering Revealed! Have you ever looked at a sprawling, majestic hydrangea or a lush, traili...
Propagate Like a Pro: The Secret Art of Plant Layering Revealed!
Have you ever looked at a sprawling, majestic hydrangea or a lush, trailing pothos and thought, “I wish I could just copy and paste that plant”?
Well, what if I told you that Mother Nature has equipped many of your favorite plants with a built-in cloning mechanism? No high-tech laboratories, no expensive rooting hormones, and no watching helpless cuttings wilt in a glass of water on your windowsill.
Welcome to the fascinating,
near-magical world of plant layering.
Layering is the unsung hero of
plant propagation. It is an ancient technique that mimics the way plants
naturally multiply in the wild. If you’ve ever seen a bramble take root where
its tip touched the soil, or a rubber tree sprout roots from a branch resting
on the forest floor, you’ve witnessed layering in action.
In this ultimate 3,000-word
guide, we are going to dive deep into the art and science of layering. Whether
you are a beginner trying to multiply your houseplant collection or a seasoned
gardener looking to clone a prized heirloom shrub, this guide will give you the
exact blueprint you need. We’ll cover the science behind the magic, five
distinct layering techniques, the best plants for each method, and the
step-by-step instructions to ensure your propagation success rate skyrockets.
Let’s get layering!
Before we get our hands dirty,
let’s address the elephant in the greenhouse: Why should I bother with
layering when I can just take a cutting?
It’s a fair question. Stem
cuttings are the most popular form of propagation. But here’s the dirty secret
of the cutting world—failure rates can be depressingly high. When you sever a
stem from its mother plant, you are essentially cutting off its life support.
The cutting must instantly pivot from growing leaves to surviving on its own,
all while trying to generate roots from scratch. It’s stressful, it’s risky,
and if the humidity drops or the soil dries out for a single day, the cutting
is toast.
Layering completely flips this
paradigm.
When you layer a plant, the stem
remains attached to the mother plant for the entire duration of the rooting
process. It is a closed-circuit system. The stem continues to receive water,
nutrients, and carbohydrates from the established root system below. It doesn't
go into shock. It doesn't suffer from transplant trauma. It simply pushes out
roots while remaining fully nourished and alive.
Once a robust root system has
formed, then you sever the connection. The result? A mature,
established, stress-free clone with a nearly 100% success rate.
Furthermore, layering allows you
to root stems that are notoriously difficult to propagate via cuttings. Woody
shrubs, thick-stemmed trees, and fussy tropicals often refuse to root as
cuttings but will root happily when layered. It is, without a doubt, the
ultimate plant parent cheat code.
To truly master layering, it
helps to understand the microscopic magic happening under the bark.
Plants have specialized cells
called meristematic cells. These are the "stem cells" of the plant
world—they can differentiate into any type of plant tissue. Under normal
circumstances, the meristematic cells in a stem are busy producing green tissue
(xylem and phloem) to help the plant grow taller.
But when you introduce a specific
stressor—like wounding the stem and burying it in dark, moist soil—you change
the chemical signals in the plant. The plant recognizes that this wounded
section is in a favorable environment for root growth. In response, the
meristematic cells at the wound site begin to divide and differentiate into
adventitious roots (roots that arise from non-root tissue).
The key to successful layering is
triggering this cellular shift. We do this through three main actions:
- Wounding: By making a cut or scrape, we sever the flow of auxins (plant hormones) downward, causing them to pool at the wound site. This high concentration of auxins screams, “Grow roots here!”
- Darkness: Roots are naturally
photophobic—they don't like light. Burying the stem in opaque media
signals the cells to become roots rather than leaves.
- Moisture: Roots need a humid environment to
form and expand without desiccating.
By manipulating these three
factors, we essentially hack the plant's biological programming.
Let’s start with the easiest,
most intuitive method of layering. If you’ve ever walked through a forest and
pulled a vine out of the dirt, only to find it attached to the earth by a
massive clump of roots, you’ve seen simple layering in action.
Simple layering is exactly what
it sounds like: you take the tip or a middle section of a flexible, low-growing
stem, bend it down to the soil, and bury it.
The Step-by-Step Process:
- Select the Stem: Choose a flexible, healthy stem from the current or previous year’s growth. It should be long enough to easily bend to the ground.
- Prepare the Soil: Loosen the soil where you
intend to bury the stem. Mix in some compost or peat moss to improve
moisture retention and aeration.
- Wound the Stem: About 6 to 12 inches from the
tip, make an upward, slanting cut about 2 inches long, slicing only
halfway through the stem. (Alternatively, you can simply scrape away a
1-inch ring of the green bark). Pro tip: Dust the wound with a tiny bit
of rooting hormone to speed things up.
- Pin it Down: Bend the wounded section down
into the prepared soil. Use a landscape pin, a bent piece of wire, or a
heavy rock to hold it securely in place. The tip of the stem should remain
pointing upward out of the soil.
- Bury and Water: Cover the pinned section with
3 to 4 inches of soil, leaving the tip exposed. Water the area thoroughly
and keep it consistently moist.
- Sever the Tie: Check the buried section in 4
to 8 weeks by gently tugging on it. If you feel resistance, roots have
formed. Cut the stem just behind the rooted section, severing it from the
mother plant. Dig up your new plant and transplant it!
The Best Plants for Simple
Layering:
Climbing roses, forsythia,
blackberries, raspberries, jasmine, clematis, honeysuckle, spirea, and
viburnum. Any plant with long, pliable, vining, or arching branches is a
perfect candidate.
If simple layering is the gentle
art of burying a stem, air layering is the dramatic, high-stakes surgery of the
plant world—and it is by far the most thrilling technique to execute.
Air layering is used for plants
that have thick, woody stems, or houseplants that have grown too tall and
"leggy." Instead of bringing the stem down to the soil, you bring the
soil up to the stem. You create a root zone right in the middle of the air!
This method is a lifesaver for
top-heavy indoor plants that have dropped all their lower leaves, or for
cloning expensive tropicals that refuse to root any other way.
The Step-by-Step Process:
- Choose the Spot: Select a spot on the stem about 12 to 18 inches down from the tip. Make sure the stem is healthy and free of pests.
- Make the Girdle: This is the most critical
step. Using a sharp, sterilized knife, make two parallel cuts all the way
around the stem, about 1 to 1.5 inches apart. Cut deep enough to go
through the bark and the green layer beneath it (the cambium), but not so
deep that you snap the stem in half.
- Remove the Bark: Peel away the ring of bark
between your two cuts. You should be left with a bare, woody cylinder. Crucial
step: Take your knife and gently scrape the exposed wood to ensure
absolutely no green cambium tissue remains. If any green tissue is left,
the plant will simply heal the wound instead of growing roots.
- Apply Hormone: Dust the exposed wound with
rooting hormone powder. This is highly recommended for air layering, as
the open wound is susceptible to drying out, and the hormone accelerates
root production.
- Wrap with Sphagnum: Soak a handful of
sphagnum moss in water and wring it out until it is damp but not dripping.
Wrap this moss completely around the wound, encasing it in a fist-sized
ball of moisture.
- Seal the Deal: Wrap the moss ball tightly
with clear plastic wrap. You want this to be airtight to trap humidity
inside. Secure the top and bottom of the plastic wrap tightly against the
stem with electrical tape, twist ties, or zip ties.
- Play the Waiting Game: Place the plant in
bright, indirect light and wait. Over the next few weeks to months, you
will see white, thread-like roots begin to form inside the plastic dome.
- The Grand Finale: Once the moss ball is thick
with visible roots, it’s time to detach. Remove the plastic and moss. Cut
completely through the stem just below the new root ball. Pot up your
brand-new plant in a suitable soil mix, and water it well!
The Best Plants for Air Layering:
Rubber trees (Ficus elastica),
Fiddle Leaf Figs, Monsteras, Crotons, Dieffenbachia, Magnolias, Camellias,
Citrus trees, and Azaleas. It is the absolute gold standard for reviving leggy
tropical houseplants.
Why get just one new plant when
you can get three, four, or five from a single stem? Enter compound layering,
also known as serpentine layering.
This technique is exactly the
same as simple layering, but instead of burying just one point on the stem, you
bury multiple points, creating an "S" or serpentine shape in the
soil. Each buried node has the potential to grow its own root system, meaning
you can harvest a whole row of new plants from one long vine.
The Step-by-Step Process:
- Find a Long Vine: You need a stem that is at least 3 to 5 feet long. Pothos, philodendrons, and long-branched shrubs are ideal.
- Prepare a Trench: Dig a shallow, wavy trench
in the soil directly beneath the vine. The trench should alternate between
high and low points.
- Wound and Pin: At each "low" point
in the trench, wound the vine by scraping off a bit of bark. Pin these
wounded sections down into the low points of the trench.
- Leave the High Points Exposed: The
"high" points of the vine between the buried sections should be
left exposed to the air. The leaves on these exposed sections will
continue to photosynthesize, providing energy to the whole stem while the
buried sections root.
- Cover and Wait: Cover the pinned sections
with soil and keep them moist.
- Harvest: Once all the buried sections have
rooted, you can sever the vine between each root ball, dividing one long
stem into multiple independent plants.
The Best Plants for Compound
Layering:
Pothos, Philodendrons, Wisteria,
long-stemmed ivy, climbing hydrangeas, and Virginia creeper. Any plant with
exceptionally long, flexible stems is a prime candidate for the serpentine
method.
If you have a woody shrub that
you want to multiply in massive quantities, mound layering (or stool layering)
is the industrial-strength method you need.
This technique is a bit
different. Instead of selecting one specific stem, you cut the entire shrub
back to the ground, forcing it to send up dozens of new, tender shoots. When
these shoots reach a few inches tall, you bury their bases in a mound of soil.
The base of each new shoot roots while the top continues to grow. It is a
highly efficient way to get a huge number of clones from a single parent plant.
The Step-by-Step Process:
- The Chop: In late winter or early spring while the plant is still dormant, cut the entire shrub down to about 1 to 2 inches above the ground. (Don't panic! This is called rejuvenation pruning, and the plant will survive).
- Wait for Sprouts: Allow the plant to push out
new shoots from the stump. Wait until these shoots are about 4 to 6 inches
tall.
- Wound the Shoots: With a knife, gently scrape
or nick the base of each new shoot where it meets the main stump.
- Mound the Soil: Scoop up a mixture of soil,
sand, and peat moss, and mound it over the base of the shoots. Cover the
bottom 2 to 3 inches of the shoots, leaving the tops exposed. Pack the
soil firmly.
- Maintain Moisture: Keep the mound
consistently moist throughout the growing season. The dark, damp
environment will cause roots to form at the base of each shoot.
- Unearth and Separate: In the autumn or the
following spring, carefully brush away the mound of soil. You will find
that each shoot now has its own root system. Sever the shoots from the old
stump, and plant them out!
The Best Plants for Mound
Layering:
Apple and pear rootstocks (this
is how commercial orchards propagate their root systems!), currants,
gooseberries, quince, hazelnuts, and spirea. It works best on multi-stemmed,
woody deciduous shrubs that can handle aggressive pruning.
Similar to mound layering, trench
layering involves laying a stem horizontally, but it is typically used for
plants that have a single, rigid trunk or a very long, strong central leader.
You lay the stem down in a trench, pin it, and allow the buds along the stem to
shoot upward and root downward simultaneously.
The Step-by-Step Process:
- Dig a Trench: In early spring, dig a trench about 4 to 6 inches deep and as long as the branch you intend to layer.
- Bend the Stem: Take a long, flexible stem from the parent plant and carefully bend it down into the trench.
- Pin and Wound: Pin the stem horizontally along the bottom of the trench. At each bud (node) along the buried stem, make a small upward nick to encourage rooting.
- Partial Fill: Cover the horizontal stem with about 2 inches of soil, leaving the very tip of the branch exposed above ground.
- Watch it Grow: As the buds on the buried stem break dormancy, they will push upward through the soil, forming vertical shoots. As these shoots grow, gradually fill in the trench with more soil, mounding it around the base of the new shoots.
- Separate: By the end of the season, the horizontal stem will have rooted at every node, and each vertical shoot will be its own rooted plant. Cut them apart and transplant.
The Best Plants for Trench
Layering:
Grapes (this is the traditional
European method for propagating grapevines), blueberries, walnuts, and heavy,
woody vines.
Layering requires very little in
the way of specialized equipment, but having the right tools on hand will make
the process smoother and significantly increase your success rate. Before you
start, gather the following:
- A Sharp, Sterilized Knife: A grafting knife
or a scalpel is perfect. You need a blade that is razor-sharp to make
clean cuts. A dull knife will crush the plant tissue, making it harder for
roots to form and increasing the risk of disease. Always sterilize your
blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to avoid spreading pathogens.
- Rooting Hormone Powder: While not strictly
necessary for all plants (especially easy-rooting species like willow or
pothos), rooting hormone is the equivalent of a turbo-boost for layering.
It contains synthetic auxins that guarantee the plant’s cells pivot toward
root production. It is highly recommended for air layering and woody
shrubs.
- Sphagnum Moss: Essential for air layering.
Sphagnum moss holds up to 20 times its weight in water, providing the
perfect, airy, moisture-retentive environment for roots to form without
rotting. Always use long-fibered sphagnum moss, not peat moss.
- Plastic Wrap and Tape: For air layering, you
need clear plastic wrap to create a humid greenhouse, and waterproof
electrical tape or zip ties to seal the top and bottom.
- Landscape Pins or Heavy Rocks: For simple and
serpentine layering, you need something to hold the stems securely under
the soil. If the stem pops out, the roots won't form.
- A Good Soil Mix: For ground layering, you
want a soil mix that holds moisture but doesn't compact into brick-hard
mud. A 50/50 mix of native soil and compost or perlite works beautifully.
The most common mistake novice
propagators make happens right at the finish line: the separation.
After weeks or months of waiting,
it is incredibly tempting to cut the new plant away from the mother, yank it
out of the ground, and stick it in a pot. This sudden, violent change can send
your newly rooted clone into severe transplant shock, causing it to wilt or
even die.
When it’s time to sever the
connection, you must think of your new plant as a newborn. It needs to be
transitioned gently.
Step 1: The Test. Before you cut
anything, test for roots. For ground layering, gently brush away the soil and
tug on the stem. If it resists, roots are present. For air layering, simply
look through the plastic wrap. Are there several thick, white roots? If the
roots are sparse and stringy, wait another few weeks. Patience is your best
tool.
Step 2: The Gradual Wean. If you
want to be extra careful, you can "wean" the new plant before
severing it. Do this by making a partial cut—severing only half of the stem
connecting the clone to the parent. This forces the new plant to start relying
on its own roots for a portion of its water and nutrients. Leave it like this
for a week, then make the final cut.
Step 3: The Cut. When you are
ready to separate, use your sterilized knife and make a clean cut. Cut the stem
on the mother plant's side of the root ball, leaving as much stem and
root attached to the new plant as possible.
Step 4: The Aftercare. Once
separated, your new plant is vulnerable. If it was air-layered, pot it up in a
container with a light, well-draining potting mix. If it was ground-layered,
carefully dig it up and transplant it to its new home. Water it deeply, and
keep it in a sheltered location with dappled shade for a week or two. Do not
expose it to harsh, direct sunlight or high winds immediately. Once it shows
signs of new growth, you know it has established, and you can treat it like a
normal plant.
Even with the highest success
rate of any propagation method, layering can sometimes fail. If you find
yourself staring at a stem that stubbornly refuses to root, or a moss ball that
has turned mushy, here are the most common culprits:
1. The Wound Healed Over
This is the number one reason
ground layers fail. If you scrape the bark or make a cut, and the plant simply
heals the wound by forming a scab, it means you didn't remove enough of the
cambium layer. The plant's primary goal is survival, and healing a wound is
faster than growing roots. Fix: Next time, scrape the exposed wood more
aggressively, ensuring not a single trace of green tissue remains. Dusting with
rooting hormone also prevents rapid healing.
2. The Medium Dried Out
Roots need consistent moisture to
form. If you bury a stem and then forget to water it during a hot summer, the
embryonic root cells will desiccate and die. This is especially common in air
layering if the plastic wrap isn't sealed tightly at the top and bottom. Fix:
Check your ground layers regularly and keep the soil damp. For air layers,
ensure the tape is wrapped tightly around the stem above and below the moss
ball.
3. The Medium Is Too Wet
(Rotting)
Conversely, if the soil is
waterlogged and lacks oxygen, the stem won't root—it will rot. This often
happens in heavy clay soils. If your air layering moss turns black and smells
sour, it’s rotting. Fix: Amend heavy clay soils with compost and perlite
before burying stems. For air layering, make sure you wring out the sphagnum
moss so it is damp like a wrung-out sponge, not dripping wet.
4. You Chose the Wrong Time of
Year
Timing plays a massive role in
plant hormones. If you try to layer a deciduous shrub in the late autumn when
it is going dormant, the sap is moving downward, and the plant’s metabolic rate
is slowing to a crawl. It won't have the energy to push out roots. Fix: The
best time for almost all layering is in the spring or early summer when the
plant is in its active growth phase and sap is flowing upward.
5. The Stem Snapped
If you are bending a woody stem
to the ground for simple layering and it snaps in half, don't throw it away!
Often, if you splint the break with a popsicle stick and some tape, and
continue to pin it to the ground, the wound will actually stimulate an even
larger flush of roots. However, to prevent snapping in the first place, wait
until the wood is pliable—often, stems grown in the current year are much more
flexible than old, woody growth.
Just as a farmer times their
crops to the seasons, a successful plant propagator times their layering to the
biological clock of the plant.
- Spring (The Golden Window): Spring is the
undisputed champion of layering. The days are lengthening, temperatures
are rising, and plants are waking up from their winter dormancy. Hormone
levels (specifically auxins and cytokinins) are at their peak as the plant
pushes out new growth. If you layer in spring, roots will form rapidly.
- Summer (The Tropical Season): Summer is
perfect for air layering tropical houseplants that live indoors, as the
warm temperatures mimic their native environments. For outdoor plants,
early summer is still viable, but you must be vigilant about watering, as
the hot sun can quickly dry out your buried stems.
- Autumn (The Second Chance): Early autumn can
work for simple layering of evergreens. The soil is still warm from the
summer, which encourages root growth, even as the air temperatures begin
to cool. The new roots will establish slowly over the fall and be ready
for separation the following spring.
- Winter (The Rest Period): Avoid layering in
winter. Deciduous plants are dormant, and the cold, wet soil can cause
stems to rot rather than root. Use winter to plan your spring projects,
sharpen your tools, and dream of your future plant army.
Unleash Your Inner Plant Cloner
Plant layering is more than just
a horticultural technique; it is an intimate collaboration with nature. When
you layer a plant, you aren't just taking a piece of it—you are guiding its
natural instinct to survive and multiply. You are speaking directly to its
cellular programming, saying, “You are safe here. Grow.”
The beauty of layering lies in
its forgiveness. Unlike cuttings, where a missed watering means death, layering
allows you to experiment with confidence. The mother plant acts as a safety
net, ensuring that even if your technique isn't perfect, the odds of success
are still overwhelmingly in your favor.
So, the next time you look at
that leggy Ficus in your living room, or that sprawling blackberry bush in your
backyard, don't just see a plant—see a cloning opportunity. Grab a knife, some
sphagnum moss, and a handful of dirt. Bend a stem, make a wound, and watch the
magic of nature unfold right before your eyes.
Happy layering, and may your
garden multiply a thousandfold!
1.What is plant layering?
Plant layering is a propagation technique
where a stem is encouraged to form roots while it is still attached to the
parent plant. Once roots are established, the new plant is severed and grown
independently.
2. How is layering different from
taking a cutting?
Unlike a cutting, which is
completely severed from the parent plant and must survive on its own while
growing roots, a layered stem remains attached. It continues to receive water
and nutrients from the parent plant, resulting in much less shock and a significantly
higher success rate.
3. Why is layering considered a
"cheat code" for plant parents?
Because the stem remains attached to the
mother plant, it doesn't go into survival shock like a cutting does. It has a
built-in life support system, meaning you get a mature, cloned plant with
nearly a 100% success rate.
4. Do plants naturally layer
themselves in the wild?
Yes! If you've ever seen a blackberry bramble
or a forsythia branch touch the soil and sprout roots where it makes contact,
you've witnessed natural simple layering.
5. What are adventitious roots?
Adventitious roots are roots that
grow from a non-root tissue, like a stem or a leaf. Layering tricks the plant
into producing these roots by wounding the stem and providing a dark, moist
environment.
6. Why do I need to wound the
stem before layering it?
Wounding the stem severs the
downward flow of plant hormones (auxins). These hormones pool at the wound
site, signaling the plant's meristematic (stem) cells to stop making green
tissue and start making roots instead.
7. Is rooting hormone necessary
for layering?
No, it is not strictly necessary,
as the wounding and environment usually suffice. However, rooting hormone is
highly recommended—especially for air layering and woody plants—because it
drastically speeds up root production and prevents the wound from healing over.
8. What is Simple (Tip) Layering?
Simple layering involves bending a flexible,
low-growing stem down to the soil, wounding the mid-section, pinning it under a
few inches of soil, and leaving the tip exposed.
9. What plants are best for
Simple Layering?
Plants with long, pliable, arching, or vining
branches. Examples include climbing roses, forsythia, blackberries,
raspberries, jasmine, clematis, and honeysuckle.
10. What is Air Layering?
Air layering is a technique for
thick, woody, or upright stems where you bring the soil up to the plant.
You girdle the stem, wrap it in moist sphagnum moss and plastic, and let roots
form in mid-air before severing it.
11. What does
"girdling" mean?
Girdling is the process of
removing a ring of bark and the green cambium layer beneath it from around a
stem. This interrupts the flow of hormones and forces the plant to grow roots
just above the cut.
12. Why is it so important to
scrape away all the green cambium when air layering?
If any green cambium tissue is
left behind, the plant will simply heal the wound and reconnect its own tissues
instead of growing roots. Scraping it down to the bare, white wood ensures the
plant must produce adventitious roots.
13. Can I use peat moss instead
of sphagnum moss for air layering?
It is not recommended. Long-fibered sphagnum
moss is preferred because it holds up to 20 times its weight in water, is airy,
and resists rotting. Peat moss compacts too much and can suffocate the
developing roots.
14. What plants are best for Air
Layering?
Rubber trees, Fiddle Leaf Figs,
Monsteras, Crotons, Dieffenbachia, Magnolias, Camellias, and Citrus trees. It
is especially great for reviving "leggy" indoor tropicals.
15. What is Compound (Serpentine)
Layering?
Compound layering involves burying multiple
sections of a single, very long stem in a wavy "S" pattern, leaving
the sections between them exposed. This allows you to get several new plants
from just one vine.
16. What is Mound (Stool)
Layering?
Mound layering involves cutting a
shrub down to the ground in early spring, then mounding soil over the base of
the new shoots that sprout. Each shoot roots at its base, allowing for mass
propagation.
17. What kind of plants respond
best to Mound Layering?
Multi-stemmed, woody deciduous
shrubs that can handle aggressive pruning, such as apple and pear rootstocks,
currants, gooseberries, and spirea.
18. How is Trench Layering
different from Simple Layering?
In simple layering, you just bend a tip down.
In trench layering, you lay a long, rigid central leader horizontally in a long
trench, pinning it down so that multiple buds along the stem shoot upward and
root downward simultaneously.
19. When is the best time of year
to layer plants?
Spring and early summer are the absolute best
times. Plants are in their active growth phase, hormone levels are peaking, and
the warm weather encourages rapid root formation.
20. Can I layer plants in the
winter?
Generally, no. Deciduous plants are dormant in
winter, and the cold, wet soil can cause stems to rot rather than root. Use
winter to plan and prepare for spring layering.
21. How do I know when my layered
stem is ready to be separated?
For ground layering, gently tug
the pinned stem; if you feel resistance, roots have formed. For air layering,
look through the plastic wrap; if the moss ball is thick with white roots, it's
ready.
22. What is "weaning" a
new plant?
Weaning is a safety step before completely
severing the new plant. You cut only halfway through the stem connecting
the clone to the parent, forcing the clone to rely on its own roots for a
portion of its water. After a week of this, you make the final cut.
23. Why did my layered stem rot
instead of growing roots?
The soil or moss was too wet and
lacked oxygen. This is common in heavy clay soils or if air layering moss is
dripping wet. Ensure the medium is damp, not waterlogged, and amends heavy soil
with perlite or compost.
24. What should I do if the wound
on my layered stem heals over without growing roots?
This happens when the cambium
layer wasn't fully removed. Uncover the wound, use a sterilized knife to
aggressively scrape away the green tissue again, apply rooting hormone, and
rebury it.
25. What should I do immediately
after severing my new plant?
Treat it gently! Water it deeply
and place it in a sheltered location with dappled shade for a week or two. Do
not expose it to harsh direct sunlight or high winds until it shows signs of
new, active growth.
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